Review of the Balmain spring 2023 fashion show

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Review of the Balmain spring 2023 fashion show

Balmain believes in the power of craftsmanship

By Angela Baidoo

Olivier Rousteing’s sense of spectacle is equivalent to that of a theater director, with each show he produces for Balmain, it is as if they were presented as a play with a series of acts , but in the scrolled format without the gaps. And despite all the calls for it to be scaled down or removed, the way Olivier has run the brand has brought it to success, so why the need for restraint? Especially at this level, when we can be presented with a collection like the one we saw today, with a clear vision and enough diversification to meet the needs of all global retailers that carry the brand.

Drawing on the tactility of natural materials, Olivier worked with linens, woods, raffia and silk to prove the power of craftsmanship as a high medium, which is intrinsically integrated with the luxury of the time that it takes to create each piece.

–Angela Baidoo

Making history modern is a theme running through this season, and here Rousteing came up with the idea of ​​reimagining fresco-style paintings as works of body art. Inspiration that was first deduced from the brand’s Instagram account where characters depicted in art form were placed in modern scenarios – a design studio, the club and the very stadium that served as the setting for the show tonight. These depictions of original artworks – such as Paolo Veronese’s “Mars and Venus United by Love” – ​​were at the time a collaboration between the house and Alexey Kondakov, a self-proclaimed “surrealist documentary photographer” whose placement – or the misplacement – of art gives the world an almost ethereal quality.

Consequence of his time as a guest designer for Jean-Paul Gaultier’s couture line, the influence of the second act was a creative turn for the brand, which despite swinging a little too close to its universe, had enough original ideas to make it’s 100% Balmain. Botticelli-style all-over prints were used for cropped suits, graphic tees, wide-leg pants and of course the corset. A favorite among Gen Zers, next season they can play with the silhouette as a layering piece, whether as an off-the-shoulder top with exposed seams or a chiffon dress with a fishtail hem.

Natural materials have been a hit across the city this season, as designers have sought to reimagine the silhouette in a more humble way to match the current vibe and take a more considered approach to design. Linen, leather, wood, and raffia gave the first-act pieces a more rustic, handcrafted feel, not something immediately associated with the brand, but it worked. The opening looks that were reworks of the famous cage dresses became almost works of art or sculptures in their own right, merging art and fashion into one. Wide-leg pants benefited from the fluidity of lightweight weaves as each style clustered around the models’ feet, and draped-front tops and wrap-around tunics from the men’s portion of today’s proceedings today provided insight into how the Balmain aesthetic could translate to vacation wear. .

The last act felt like a deeply personal cathartic release, as the last 5 looks – except one – featured a flame print, which could be interpreted as Rousteing turning tragedy (the designer suffered severe burns after an explosion fireplace last year) in triumph and tames the element while the fluid dresses and separates.

Image #98 (Reviewer – please add a single image number to go below next to the quote)

With nearly 100 looks per season, Olivier has become known for his showmanship, taking the platform and resources afforded him to explore and expand his ideas across a series of cohesive themes, in a collection that continues to become part of the brand’s history.

–Angela Baidoo

Perhaps one of the hardest working designers in the business, Rousteing presented a collection made up of looks for both men and women and for good measure a tailoring section that closed the show, and with nearly 100 looks per season, Olivier has become known for his showmanship. , taking the platform and resources given to it to explore and expand its ideas across a series of cohesive themes in a collection that continues to become part of the brand’s history and solidify its future in the market. luxury.


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